ELLE Magazine SA is dedicated in bringing fashion and style to the women of
South Africa, and considering the magazine’s popularity it seems as if they are
successful. But when paging through the glossy pages, one cannot help to notice
the expensive products displayed and promoted. Does this magazine really
succeed in bringing fashion to their readers and target market, or do they
measure their success to how closely they can resemble their international
counterparts?
Elle describes her reader as confident, ambitious, aspirational, educated, image
conscious, trendy, loves to shop and continually on the look out for international
inspiration. Elle targets fashion conscious and independent women aged 20 to 44
and successfully attract a 66% black readership. 61% of Elle readers fall in the
LSM 8-10 category with 41% having a household income of R20 000+. 39% are
well educated with 46% working full time. The highest percentage of
distribution takes place in Gauteng, while in comparison with their competitors,
the Elle readers are most urbanized. 33% owns a personal car or are planning to
purchase one in the future, while 55% has DSTV and 65% has internet access. In
creating a profile for the average Elle reader, she can be described as black, 33
years of age, living in Gauteng with an income of about R15 000 – R20 000 per
month, owns a car and DSTV. Therefore one can also conclude that the average
Elle reader is not the average South African or average in any other way. 1
Where one Elle reader (who fits the profile described above) think that the
prices are quite reasonable and fair, and likes the fact that she is updated on
current fashion trends through the clothes advertised in Elle, another responded
that the prices advertised for certain items are not easily accessible for the
average reader in South Africa. Both women had actually purchased products
advertised in the magazine, especially shoes, but only those that fall into their
price range, while some budget planning and bargain hunting is always being
implemented beforehand. It becomes clear that to a certain extent the average
Elle reader can afford most of the products, but only one at a time. They cannot
splurge on an item from every page, since one purchase already needs careful
budget planning. Therefore the products within the magazine are expensive,
because the target market is not capable to make regular purchases. Some might
argue that success is measured to the amount of sales that resulted from the
advertising, and can the magazine from this point of view be regarded as
unsuccessful. For the average South African, the products are definitely
inaccessible. 2
So why do advertisers still advertise in Elle, and why are women keep coming
back for more? It is best expressed in one Elle reader’s comment that she ‘buys
with her eyes’. Most women cannot afford the products, but that is exactly why
they buy the magazine that displays that unaffordable product - it is the closest
they are going to get to own it. The luxurious products serves as aspirational,
something for the viewer to strive for, to fantasize over, even if they know they
will probably never be able to afford it.
The following quote is an extract from Consumer Experiences with Fashion
Images:
“Through a glamorizing interpretation, fashion magazine advertisements can be
an inspirational source for idealized images of self in life in a pretend world that is
fascinating to consumers, of which they would like to be part of. These magazines
are like books for desirable consumer goods, which may offer a key to a better and
more pleasant life; it is like presenting a dream world. Without ever saying so
explicitly, fashion images take the viewer away from daily life.” 3
“Fashion magazines can be like handbooks for learning about fashion trends and
adapting them to one’s way of dressing up. In this sense, fashion magazines are
great tools for diffusing the new fashion. Even if the above consumer cannot afford
the Prada brand product, she still gets inspired from the design for adapting it her
own style.” 4
When approaching it from this angle, Elle Magazine SA can be considered
forward thinking and aspirational, rather than being a practical catalogue. And
being Elle, they need to keep up with their international brand. One SA designer
actually said that Elle SA reproduce the fashion spreads of the international Elle
using South African designer wear and accessories. To keep up with the brand
image, they don’t have a choice but to be a step ahead of their South African
competition and they are certainly not going to lower their standards.
When I approached Jackie Burger, editor of Elle SA, she was quick to respond
with the following statement:
“Our readers understand power of style; the commerce premise of ‘affordability” is
not part of our readers’ language. She is an intelligent and informed woman and
we do not have “average” readers. We also support her intelligence with choice; it
would be arrogant to assume someone cannot dream about an item of clothing or
a piece of design by focusing on demographic analysis of a consumer profile. At Elle
we talk to our readers and do not treat her as a research percentage. We
understand her inspiration and aspiration.5
Elle has emphasized the aspect of aspiration being one of the main
characteristics of their readers. Their aim is to make a personal connection, with
the readers allowing themself to be drawn into a world of luxury and dreams.
Therefore if a reader feels intimidated by the prices of products in Elle Magazine
SA, you are obviously not their target. And yes, most readers might not be able to
afford the products, but they certainly appreciate it for the beauty on
aspirational value of it. But there is as many opinions and arguments on this
matter as there are people on this planet, but one thing is for sure, there is
nothing average about Elle Magazine SA or its readers.
1 Elle, 2011/12. Elle generic presentation, [powerpoint]
2 Mabuza, N., Mpumi@angloafricanevents.co.za, 2012. Elle Questionaire, [email]
Message to FJ de Villiers (francoisejeanne.devilliers@gmail.com). Sent 12 June
2012, 13:08.
Da Lanca, G., gdalanca@live.co.za, 2012. Elle Questionaire, [email]. Message to M
Oosthuizen (nwsd@gds.co.za). Sent 13 June 2012, 10:40.
3 Atik, D., n.a. Consumer experiences with fashion magazine images, review of
social, economic & business studies. 718: 63.
4 Atik, D., n.a. Consumer experiences with fashion magazine images, review of
social, economic & business studies. 718: 65.
5 Evans, P, poppy@ellemag.co.za 2012. Elle Investigation/Report, [email]
Message to FJ de Villiers (francoisejeanne.devilliers@gmail.com). Sent 20 June
2012, 15:32.
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